How to Sew an Easy, Modest Skirt — Without a Pattern!

It can sometimes be hard to find modest skirts for ourselves and our daughters. Many of the skirts I’ve seen at regular department stores are tiny, above-the-knee things that look more like ballet tutus than actual clothing. Maxi skirts are an exception to that; however, they are usually made out of thin, stretchy fabric that can sometimes expose more of our shapes than we want people to see, and they can cost more than we want to spend. The answer to that dilemma? Sew our own skirts!

I am so excited to be able to share with you a skirt-making idea for modest-minded ladies! If you’re the type of person that needs sewing to be made super, super easy, then we’re on the same page! Warning: I’m no expert, so I may have made a few “mistakes” that sewing professionals would notice. But, my feeling is that as long as it works, no big deal. Please feel free to share any of your own tips!

I tried making a skirt from scratch the other day, and was surprised at how well it turned out. It took me about two hours total — in other words, part of an afternoon. I took a few photos to show you, just in case you want to give it a shot yourself.

Step 1 — Choose your fabric.

(Make sure you pre-wash the fabric before using it). I think this piece of cloth must be close to two yards. I folded it over exactly as you see in the picture. It was a little over twice the width of my daughter’s waist (I made the skirt for her, but these directions can be used for anybody). I didn’t measure anything, just eyed it. Don’t worry about having a “perfect width” since the skirt will have elastic inserted later on.

For a fuller skirt, use more fabric. For a slimmer fit, use less fabric.

Don’t worry about the length at this point, since that is something that will be one of the last steps.

Turn the fabric inside out before stitching the seam.

Step 2 — Sew the seam.

Sew a straight seam right down the edge of where the two end pieces meet. Leave about a quarter to a half inch of fabric on the outer edge (picture not shown for this step).

After sewing the seam, turn back the edges and iron them flat (above). Then, do a zigzag stitch to secure them in place (below). I think I could have trimmed the edges of the fabric so they wouldn’t go so far past the seam, but I didn’t. The only problem with this is that after being washed and dried, the edges fray and get little strings hanging off. That’s not so bad; I just trim the strings off if they get too long.

Step 3 — Fold and sew the waistband.

This is where the elastic will go, so it must not be sewn completely shut. I left a space of about two to three inches to fit the elastic into later on.

First, make a small, quarter-inch fold at the upper edge of the skirt. Then, iron it flat. Next, fold the edge of the fabric over once more, with enough room for the elastic to pass through later on. Iron this flat, too.

After that, stitch the bottom edge of the waistband as shown above.

When finished with that, stitch the top edge of the waistband as shown below. Make sure this is very close to the top edge.

This upper stitch helps keep the top edge from thinning, I think. I’ve noticed that when skirts don’t have this stitch, the elastic tends to wear and tear on the waistband of the skirt, creating small holes. This step gives extra strength to the waistband. It also looks nice, if one wanted to wear the skirt over a tucked-in blouse.

If you want, you might also zigzag stitch the bottom edge of the waistband, to keep it in place, and for added strength (below).

Step 4 — Insert the elastic.

Here is the elastic I chose:

Measure the elastic by wrapping it around the waist where it feels the most comfortable. Mark with a pen or marker where you want the pieces to join. Leave a few inches extra on either side, then cut it (don’t be stingy with the length, since you will trim it more in just a minute).

After that, attach one end of the elastic with a safety pin at the opening that was left in the waistband. This is so it won’t get pulled through when the elastic is inserted.

At the loose end of the elastic, attach another safety pin. This will help you push the elastic through the waistband. Insert this end into the waistband opening, and gently push it through the “tunnel” while bunching the fabric up.

Do this until the elastic comes out the other end; once you’ve reached the end, take both safety pins out, and attach both ends of elastic together with only one safety pin. You don’t want it to slip back into the hole.

Put the skirt on. See if it fits the way you want it to. If necessary, re-adjust the elastic. Once you’re sure it’s just right, safety pin it together again. Take the skirt off, and get ready to sew the elastic together.

Once you sit down again at the sewing machine, take the safety pin out, and hold the elastic together under the needle, lining up the marks. Sew a straight seam up and down the elastic where you made the marks. Also sew a straight stitch on either side of this.

Trim off the extra elastic.

Once you have done this, sew the opening shut with seams to match what you’ve already sewn in the previous steps (bottom stitch, top stitch, and zigzag stitch to secure the bottom edge).

Distribute the skirt fabric evenly over the elastic, making sure it isn’t bunched up too much in any one place.

You will want to keep the elastic in place by stitching a top-to-bottom (vertical) seam over the elastic in four different places: back, front, and both sides. This keeps the elastic from twisting (below) and keeps the fabric from bunching up.

Step 5 — Trim and stitch the bottom hem.

This is where you’ll need to measure how long you want the skirt to be.

Put the skirt back on, and put a few straight pins in horizontally where you want the bottom edge of the skirt to be (I suggest a skirt that is at least several inches below the knee).

After you take the skirt off, put it on the table and smooth it flat. For this step you might find it useful to use a measuring tape to make sure you trim the edge at an even length all the way across (you don’t want a lop-sided skirt that is longer on one side than the other).

Measure from the top of the skirt down past the pins you just placed, leaving about an inch for folding the hem (in the next step). Mark where you want to trim the bottom; do this on both sides of the skirt. Then, lightly mark a line with a ruler or yard stick (or other hard, flat item) connecting your marks in a “connect-the-dots” style where you want to cut the fabric.

[Alternatively, you can simply fold over the skirt a couple times and try to cut as evenly as you can from one side to the other. This is actually what I did!]

Be brave and go ahead and snip the extra fabric off.

Next, turn the skirt inside out again. Make a hem at the bottom edge by folding it over about a quarter inch, ironing it flat, then folding it over once more a quarter inch to hide the edge. Iron this flat, too. Stitch the hem at the upper edge (below). This hem does not need to be as wide as the one you made for the waistband.

If you like, you can also sew a zigzag stitch to secure the upper edge of the hem (I did this after I attached the lace, but you can do it before, too; it will probably be easier if you do it before). This helps most when the stitch isn’t very close to the edge of the fold of the hem. If your stitch is close enough, you might not want to do this extra step.

Now, here comes the fun part!

Step 6 — Attach your lace or ribbon.

If you choose ribbon, it will go over the hem on the front of the skirt. If you choose lace, you will want to attach it to the back of the hem on the inside of the skirt, with most of it peeking out from the bottom edge. (Note that sewing on ribbon or lace might make the hem a little stiffer.)

Pick a color that matches or complements the colors of the cloth.

With the skirt turned inside out (for lace), sew the lace onto the bottom of the hem below where you stitched the top edge of the hem earlier. The lace should extend past the edge so that it will show when you turn the skirt the right way again (below).

(Below, the zigzag stitch to secure the upper edge.)

That’s it! As I said before, this skirt took me about two hours to make. It really was a cinch. I didn’t use a pattern, but did refer to this book:

Sewing 101: A Beginner’s Guide

I plan on making more skirts like this for my girls, especially for the oldest. It’s pretty easy to find cute and appropriate dresses for younger girls (under ten) at most department stores; it’s when they get taller that there’s a problem, usually.

Another tip: look for dark fabric and bright colors. I’m not saying you need to choose neon! But, I’ve noticed that lighter colors (especially white) tend to show through more than dark fabrics. The cream color I used for this skirt isn’t too bad; but it was a piece of cloth I already had on hand (since I didn’t know how this skirt-making experiment was going to turn out). Next time, however, I will buy something a bit darker.

Also, choose medium weight, cotton fabric; not synthetic and not flimsy. You want something that will tolerate wear and be a little stiff in order to help cover up the shape of the body beneath, for modesty.

Here’s a related article you might want to check out:

Homemade Winter Slip for Layering Under Long Skirts

If you make this skirt, please let me know how it turns out. And send me pictures!

Happy sewing!

~Jessica

22 thoughts on “How to Sew an Easy, Modest Skirt — Without a Pattern!

  1. Jessica, that skirt is darling! I’m starting to enjoy sewing now thanks to Shannon’s encouagement! I’m glad you are feeling better. Have you had your iron levels checked? Is it normal for you to be so tired during your pregnancies? I’m just concerned.

    1. Regina,
      It’s so neat that we’re both doing more sewing now (in my case: a little more)! 🙂

      Thanks for asking about how I’m doing. Yes, I’ve had my iron levels checked, and they are normal. I think that this tiredness is just part of being pregnant, for me. Another thing is that I am still not eating very well due to some lingering nausea and lack of ability to cook meals. So, I eat whatever is available, and sometimes those things are not as healthy as would be ideal. I do drink protein smoothies once or twice a day, though, and I take a multivitamin. I should add that my husband does cook for me when he gets home, and my children are great helps to me throughout the day. 🙂 Hopefully, I will have a little more energy as I get farther along.

      Have a great weekend!
      Jessica

  2. Thank you !

    I love and wear a lot of skirts like this although maybe a little longer than your daughter’s.

    I can just about make one for my daughter as long as I keep it really simple and use plain material.

    With a simple cotton skirt like this you do really need a slip unless you can do a decent lining.

    1. You’re welcome, Susanne!
      I agree about the slip. I don’t know how to make linings — perhaps I should learn!

      Personally, I would wear the slip, but for my daughter, I don’t make her wear one (yet). She always wears leggings under all her skirts and dresses. She also runs and jumps around when she plays outside with her siblings, and I feel like a slip would just get torn. As she gets older, though, I will transition her into wearing slips (and jumping around less, ha, ha).

      Jessica

      1. No I quite understand it’s great to let her play, as long as she is modest and gradually introduce a more ‘ladylike’ approach for formal occasions like Church and generally as she gets older.

  3. Lovely post! Your daughters must be so happy.In most cases,children still remember what their mother made for them even when they grow up.It can be sweet memory of how their mother loved them.

    I used to sew cloth bags and porches,but sadly my sewing machine was broken several years ago.

    I hope that you are feeling better.Please take care and God be with you.

    1. Thank you, Sanae!
      I certainly do hope that the things I make for my children will be a sweet memory for them! 🙂

      I’m sorry to hear about your sewing machine. Mine is just the cheapest one I could find at Walmart. I didn’t feel the need to buy something expensive, since I’m really just an amateur at this. If I ever get more serious about it, than maybe I will think about purchasing something better quality.

      I AM feeling generally better, thanks!
      Jessica

  4. Jessica, thanks for sharing. I plan to sew a few mid calf skirts for this summer. I like how you used the zig zag stitch. I never thought of doing that. You done a wonderful job!
    I must share… I sewed my first skirt & was so pleased with the way that it came out I wore it to church the next day.
    Well I sat down in the pew and felt a big rip! The entire side of my skirt ripped out and my slip was exposed!
    I waited until everyone bowed in prayer, said a quick prayer myself and bolted for the door! I had a huge blow out in my skirt LOL I sewed the seam too close to the edge.
    So needless to say I am very careful when I sew seams and using your idea of the zig zag stitch will be a huge help!
    Also I have been praying for you & baby that you will feel better through out your pregnancy.
    Blessings, Rosemarie

    1. Rosemarie,
      Thanks for sharing that story — I’m sure I will be extra careful with the seams from now on, too, ha, ha!
      When you sew your summer skirts, you should send me pictures; I would love to see how they turn out!

      I also want to tell you how MUCH I appreciate your prayers. 🙂
      Jessica

      P.S. I should let you know that I just recently canceled my Facebook account. I wasn’t really using it, and I like keeping in touch with my friends through email and blogging much better. 🙂

  5. How nice that Looks Jessica . Thanks for sharing.It is a very nice easy skirt for a girl.
    I just LOVE to sew most of our skirts and dresses myself . Plus it is hard to find decent ones at stores.
    I use two different basic patterns. One is a A shape maxi skirt. I took this pattern from a skirt i had once and really liked it.
    The other is a Mennonite cape dress pattern. I can alter this pattern in all sorts of styles.
    Without the cape i have a dirndl style dress ,or i just use the skirt wich is VERY nice and roomy ,or i fold the skirt part a bit to get a less wide skirt.
    Also the sleeves can be altered to various widths and lenghts. I just fold the straight parts in to desired width.
    I really hope for you that you can instill the love for wearing dresses in your girls so that they will stick to it when they become older.
    My girls mostly wear pants now as teenagers since it is really NOT en vogue to wear dresses these days at our church.
    I have the impression with both that they would love to wear more skirts but due to peer pressure feel not convinced enough.
    I really, really hope and pray that one day they will be strong enough to swim against the tide.
    It is not always easy. But we talk about it once in a while and i hope they will seek and become convinced as they grow older.
    Have you ever tried fabric that contains Polyester? I like this fabric for it is durable and needs not much ironing plus the colors stay bright for longer.

  6. You’ve got me on this one, Jessica – unfortunately, all of that looks like Greek to me! I can just sew the tiniest bit by hand, but not a bit by machine. I want to learn more about sewing by hand – that’s one of my goals for the year, to get started on that. Sewing is one of the skills that got dropped in the generation gap between my mom and me – she worked full-time outside the home, and the skill was never taught (or rather, was taught so little that it just didn’t transfer permanently). But now that we have a daughter, I feel the responsibility to regain the skill so that it doesn’t become a generational loss.

    Thank you for posting! The skirt is lovely!!
    Diana

    P.S. Regarding the comment above: I have an intense dislike of slips and stockings, so I just choose skirts heavy enough that they don’t need them. In seven years of being skirts-only, I have never worn either! Just shorts or yoga pants underneath. 🙂

    1. Awww, don’t feel so bad about it, Diana! I’m at the very, very beginning stages of learning how to sew myself!

      I agree with you, that this skill has been sadly neglected among most women, and it would be so helpful for mothers to teach their daughters this skill. If only I knew more! But, I can at least pass on a few basics to my daughters, hopefully! 🙂

      As for slips, I only wear them under skirts that are of very light and/or thin material. I prefer thicker materials for skirts (as you mentioned) or skirts that already come with slips. The reason, for me, is that I have a sensitive tummy that doesn’t like to have a lot of pressure on it. If I have too much pressure on my waist (from too much bulk) I get bloated and start having cramps. Usually, I wear leggings underneath (except when I’m pregnant, since they feel too tight and uncomfortable). Leggings have smooth elastic that doesn’t seem to interfere with my stomach. I also appreciate the fact that they keep my legs from chafing in the summer heat. 🙂

      I do hope to try an idea that another reader mentioned: wearing a full slip under a blouse/skirt combo. As long as I could nurse in it, that might be one way to decrease the bulk.

      Thanks for sharing your thoughts, as always! 🙂
      Jessica

  7. I wear a slip pretty much all the time but a full slip rather than from the waist. That avoids the problems of having an extra waist band but it also makes sure that if your skirt and top part company you are still decent.

  8. Thank you for sharing this with us Jessica,
    I have 2 daughters in kindergarten and it can be so challenging to find a modest skirt days that I actually had the thought to make my own.(I have no clue how) so thanks again for sharing ☺

    1. You’re welcome, Galina!

      For my little girls, I usually just buy them dresses from the store, like Walmart. But, I buy them one to two sizes larger so that they will be longer (at or below the knees).
      Since it is nearly impossible to find dresses or skirts long enough for older girls, however (unless they are maxi skirts/dresses), I’ve found it necessary to either buy skirts for my oldest daughter online from someplace like koshercasual.com or to make them myself.

      Jessica

  9. Hi, my name is Emily. I really like your blog. I cannot wait to be a housewife and homeschool my children. I want my girls to only wear skirts and dresses. I am new to dressing modestly. Do you have any tips? Thank you!

    1. Hi, Emily, I’m so happy to see your enthusiasm for being a housewife, homeschooling your (future) children, and dressing modestly!

      Here are a couple of posts about the practical side of wearing skirts and dresses only that you might enjoy:
      https://truthathome.wordpress.com/2016/03/31/getting-the-trick-of-skirts-and-dresses-only-some-tips-from-my-own-experience/
      https://truthathome.wordpress.com/2016/07/15/wearing-skirts-and-dresses-only-a-few-points-of-principle/

      Hope that helps!
      ~Jessica

  10. Hello, I found your site as I was searching for a refresher on a simple skirt for my daughter. Modest clothing is so hard to find and she is needing a couple of skirts. I have subscribed to your blog and look forward to reading more.

    1. Oh, so nice to meet you, Katie! How nice to know that you are intent on helping your daughter dress modestly, as I am with mine. I’m glad you found something of interest here on my blog; hopefully, my future articles will prove useful to you, as well. Thank you for subscribing!
      ~Jessica

  11. Hi, do you have advice on where I can read to learn how to sew? I don’t know the first thing about it all but I feel so called to learn and not only make my own modest clothes but for the future when I have a husband and children. Many places online say tips for beginners but they assume you know all the basics. Thank you kindly.

    1. Bebe, I suggest you go to a store like Joann’s where they sell fabrics and such, and ask about classes for beginners. Also, YouTube has tutorials that could be helpful.
      ~Jessica

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